Srinagar, Sonamarg, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
Kashmir circuit with a spare day
The four classic stops in a sensible order, plus one day in Pahalgam with nothing booked. Use it for Aru, a long river walk or a lie-in.
See Kashmir properly, then go further
Houseboats and Gulmarg, yes. Then a camp beside Tarsar, the road over Razdan Pass into Gurez, saffron fields at dawn and the first snow of winter. Private trips, planned by a local team in Srinagar.
- Your own cab and driver
- Local trek crews
- One clear written price
Tarsar Lake, above Aru
We stay on WhatsAppFrom airport pickup to drop-off
Most Kashmir itineraries stop where the traffic thins out. Ours usually keep going for one more valley.
Chasing Horizons is a small Kashmiri team in Rambagh, south Srinagar, on the road in from the airport. We plan the classic circuit for first-time visitors, and we plan it well. What we enjoy most, though, is the step beyond it: a night in Aru instead of Pahalgam town, a week on foot past alpine lakes, a drive to Gurez as soon as the pass opens.
We know these routes season by season. When the Razdan road usually clears, which week the chinars turn, how cold Tarsar gets at night in September. Every trip is private, priced in one clear quote and run by people who live here.
- Rambagh officeSouth Srinagar, about 25 minutes from the airport
- Private tripsYour own cab, driver and pace, never a shared coach
- Trek crewsLocal leaders, cooks and ponies on every trek
Popular Kashmir trips
Eight starting points, from the classic circuit to nine days on foot. Every one can be changed. Prices are per person on twin sharing unless marked, and move with the season.
Sonamarg to Naranag, with Srinagar either side
Kashmir Great Lakes trek
Seven alpine lakes, three passes and about 70 km of trail from Sonamarg to Naranag. We build in a buffer day at Gangbal and finish with a houseboat night.
Aru, Lidderwat, Tarsar and Sundarsar
Tarsar Marsar trek from Aru
A shorter high-lake trek that starts 12 km above Pahalgam. Camp on the shore of Tarsar, cross into Sundarsar and look down on Marsar, all in about 48 km.
Srinagar, Wular Lake, Razdan Pass, Dawar and Tulail
Gurez valley road trip
Five hours north over the Razdan Pass to a valley of log houses and the Kishanganga river. Four nights up there, including a full day in Tulail.
Srinagar, Sonamarg, Pampore and Pahalgam
Autumn colour and saffron
Timed for chinar season and the saffron bloom. Early light in Srinagar, purple fields at Pampore and the golden birch and poplar around Aru.
Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Srinagar
Kashmir in first snow
Snow in two valleys, not one. Two nights in Gulmarg with a beginner ski session, two in Pahalgam by the frozen Lidder, and a warm houseboat to finish.
Doodhpathri, Yusmarg, Daksum, Sinthan Top and Srinagar
Doodhpathri, Yusmarg and Sinthan Top loop
A week in the meadows most visitors skip. Two quiet valleys in Budgam, the forest at Daksum and the high road over Sinthan Top, ending on a Srinagar houseboat.
Nigeen Lake, Aru and Gulmarg
Honeymoon off the main road
Kashmir for two, away from the honeymoon crowd. Two nights on quiet Nigeen Lake, two in Aru above Pahalgam and two in Gulmarg, with no early starts.
None of these quite right?
Plan a custom tripPlaces worth the drive
The valleys every first trip covers, and the ones we nudge people towards once they have seen those. Altitude, drive time and the right season for each.
1,585 m
Srinagar
Houseboats, old city lanes and the lakeside gardens. Every trip starts here.
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2,650 m
Gulmarg
A meadow under Apharwat. The Gondola, ski slopes and high lakes in summer.
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2,200 m
Pahalgam and Aru
The Lidder river, pine forest and Aru, the trailhead village above town.
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2,800 m
Sonamarg
Glacier meadows on the Sindh, and the start of the Great Lakes trek.
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2,400 m
Gurez
Log villages on the Kishanganga, over the Razdan Pass from Bandipora.
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2,730 m
Doodhpathri
Open meadows and a milky, fast river, 90 minutes from Srinagar.
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2,400 m
Yusmarg
Pine forest, the Doodh Ganga and an easy walk to Nilnag lake.
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2,200 m
Naranag and Gangbal
Eighth-century stone temples and the high lakes under Mount Haramukh.
ExplorePick your month
Kashmir is a different trip depending on when you come. Choose a month to see the weather, what is open and where we would send you.
Chillai Kalan
Srinagar: about −2°C to 7°C
Chillai Kalan runs from 21 December to the end of January, and this is when the powder on Apharwat is at its best. Srinagar wakes to frost on the houseboat roofs, and on a clear morning the Pir Panjal looks close enough to touch. Gurez and the high passes are shut, so winter trips stay around Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam, in rooms with heating that actually works.
- Good for
- Powder skiing, snow photography, houseboat nights by the bukhari
- Where to go
- Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Sonamarg when the road has been cleared.
- Pack
- Thermal layers, insulated boots with good grip, a down jacket and a woollen cap
Bright snow days
Srinagar: about −1°C to 9°C
February often brings fresh falls on Apharwat followed by long blue-sky days, which is exactly what skiers hope for. The slopes are quieter than over New Year and lesson slots are easier to get. Down in Srinagar the cold eases a little by the last week, though mornings on the lake are still sharp.
- Good for
- Ski lessons, snowshoe walks, the Gondola over snow, winter light for photographs
- Where to go
- Gulmarg, Srinagar and Pahalgam. Sonamarg depending on snowfall.
- Pack
- Full winter kit and dark glasses for the glare off the snow
Winter lets go
Srinagar: about 3°C to 14°C
March gives you two seasons in one trip. Badamwari in Srinagar flowers white and pink in the first half of the month, while Gulmarg and Aru still have snow underfoot. The weather swings quickly, rain one day and hard sun the next, so we keep plans loose. The Tulip Garden normally opens to visitors in the final week.
- Good for
- Almond blossom, late-season snow, quiet hotels before the spring rush
- Where to go
- Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
- Pack
- Warm layers, a waterproof jacket and shoes that can cope with slush
Tulips and orchard blossom
Srinagar: about 7°C to 20°C
April is Srinagar's busiest spring month. The Tulip Garden below the Zabarwan hills is fullest early on, and apple, pear and cherry blossom follow across the valley. Pahalgam, Doodhpathri and Yusmarg start to green up, though the trekking routes are still deep in snow. Book rooms early and reach the garden when the gates open.
- Good for
- The Tulip Garden, Mughal gardens, blossom drives, Pahalgam in spring
- Where to go
- Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Doodhpathri and Yusmarg
- Pack
- Light layers, a fleece and a rain shell
The valleys open
Srinagar: about 11°C to 25°C
By May the snowline has pulled back far enough for Doodhpathri, Yusmarg and Sonamarg to be at their freshest. Rafting starts on the Sindh and the Lidder as the water rises. The Razdan Pass road to Gurez usually clears in late May or early June, depending on the winter. It is a fine month for day hikes before the big treks open.
- Good for
- Day hikes, early rafting, quiet meadows, Sonamarg
- Where to go
- Everywhere except the high trekking routes. Gurez from late in the month, most years.
- Pack
- Layers, a warm fleece for evenings and sturdy walking shoes
Long days, fast water
Srinagar: about 15°C to 29°C
June is busy in Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam, so we steer people towards quieter corners where we can: Aru instead of Pahalgam town, Gurez instead of a second day in Gulmarg. Rafting is at its liveliest. Sinthan Top is usually open by now, and the lower trails around Aru are clear for long day walks.
- Good for
- Rafting, Gurez, Sinthan Top, camping in Aru
- Where to go
- Everywhere below the high passes
- Pack
- Light clothes, one warm layer, sunscreen and a hat
The high lakes thaw
Srinagar: about 18°C to 31°C
From early July the Great Lakes and Tarsar Marsar routes are open and the alpine flowers are at their peak. July and August are also Amarnath Yatra months, which means heavy traffic and extra security around Pahalgam, Baltal and Sonamarg. We time drives and trek starts around the convoy schedule.
- Good for
- Kashmir Great Lakes, Tarsar Marsar, Gangbal, Alpather lake above Gulmarg
- Where to go
- Everywhere, with slow Yatra convoys on the Pahalgam and Sonamarg roads
- Pack
- Trekking boots you have already broken in, a rain shell and a down jacket for camp
Green and mostly dry
Srinagar: about 18°C to 30°C
August is still prime time on the treks, with short afternoon showers in the hills and warm days in Srinagar. It is a lovely month for Gurez, where the fields are full and the Kishanganga runs clear. Start early each day, because clouds tend to build after lunch.
- Good for
- Treks, Gurez and Tulail, meadow camping, Sinthan Top
- Where to go
- Everywhere
- Pack
- Quick-dry layers, a rain shell and a warm hat for nights in camp
Clear air, empty trails
Srinagar: about 12°C to 28°C
September has the clearest views of the year, and nights at the high camps turn properly cold by the end of the month. The trekking season closes around mid to late September, when early snow becomes a real risk on the passes. Down in the valley, apples ripen in Shopian and Sopore and the roadsides fill with fruit stalls.
- Good for
- Treks, Gangbal, Gurez, photography, orchards
- Where to go
- Everywhere
- Pack
- Warm layers for cold mornings, sunglasses, and a sleeping bag rated near freezing if you trek
The chinars turn
Srinagar: about 6°C to 23°C
October is the month we enjoy guiding most. The chinars around Dal, Nishat and the Jhelum turn gold and then deep red, Aru and Sonamarg glow with birch and poplar, and the light stays soft all day. Gurez is open until snow shuts the Razdan Pass. In the last week the saffron fields at Pampore, just south of the city, start to bloom.
- Good for
- Chinar walks, autumn drives, photography, early saffron, Gurez
- Where to go
- Everywhere, and Gurez while the pass stays open
- Pack
- A warm jacket for evenings, layers and comfortable walking shoes
Saffron and first frost
Srinagar: about 0°C to 15°C
Early November is saffron time. Families pick the flowers at dawn in Pampore and separate the red threads by hand the same day. The chinar leaves drop and gather in drifts, the air goes still and cold, and the first snow usually dusts Apharwat and the peaks above Sonamarg. Rooms are easy to find and rates come down.
- Good for
- The saffron harvest, the last of the autumn colour, quiet houseboat stays
- Where to go
- Srinagar, Pahalgam and Gulmarg. Gurez and Sinthan Top close with the first heavy snow.
- Pack
- A winter jacket, warm socks and gloves for early mornings
First snow
Srinagar: about −2°C to 9°C
December starts the snow season. Gulmarg usually gets its first heavy fall in the second half of the month and the ski schools start soon after. Rooms in Gulmarg and Pahalgam for Christmas and New Year go fast, so plan by October if you want those dates. The first fortnight is quieter and often just as pretty.
- Good for
- First snow, Christmas in Gulmarg, winter houseboat nights
- Where to go
- Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam
- Pack
- Full winter clothing, waterproof boots and thermals
Days worth planning for
Six things we think make a Kashmir trip. Most need a little organising, which is what we are here for.
July to SeptemberKashmir Great Lakes
Seven lakes, three passes, about 70 km of trail.
July to SeptemberA night at Tarsar
Camp beside a lake at about 3,800 m.
May to SeptemberSnowmelt rafting
Cold, fast water on the Sindh and the Lidder.
January to MarchGulmarg in powder
Lessons for beginners, Apharwat for the rest.
Late October to NovemberSaffron at dawn
Purple fields just south of Srinagar.
All yearA night on Nigeen
Carved walnut, still water and tea on the deck.
How it works
Four steps from first message to airport pickup. You deal with the same person throughout.
- 01
Send us a message
Tell us your dates, who is coming and what kind of trip you want. Trek, road trip, snow or the classic circuit, a rough idea is enough.
- 02
Get a plan with one price
Usually within a day you get a day-by-day route, the stays or camps we suggest and a single price listing what is and is not included.
- 03
Shape it and confirm
Swap stops, add a night, change the hotel level. When it looks right, a part payment confirms the rooms, the cab and any trek crew.
- 04
Go
We pick you up at Srinagar airport and stay on WhatsApp throughout. On treks, we keep in touch through your trek leader wherever there is signal.
Questions people ask
Straight answers on seasons, safety, phones and what our prices cover.
Still have a question?
Ask on WhatsApp and you will hear from a person, not a bot.
Message usWhen can I trek in Kashmir?
The high treks, including the Great Lakes, Tarsar Marsar and Gangbal, run from early July to about mid-September, when the lakes are free of ice and the passes are clear. Shorter walks around Aru, Doodhpathri and Yusmarg work from May to October.
Do I have to trek to travel with you?
Not at all. Plenty of our guests come for Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg. We simply like to add a quieter valley or a spare night where it makes the trip better.
Is Kashmir safe to visit?
Tourist areas such as Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg see visitors through the year, and we follow local conditions every day from Srinagar. If something changes, we tell you straight and adjust the route. Check current government advisories before booking as well.
What do your prices include?
Usually rooms, breakfast and dinner, a private cab with driver and airport transfers. Treks include the crew, tents and meals. Gondola tickets, pony rides and union taxis are paid locally, and every quote lists them clearly.
Will my phone work in Kashmir?
Postpaid SIMs from other states work. Prepaid SIMs from outside Jammu and Kashmir do not. On treks and in Gurez, expect long stretches with no signal at all.
How far ahead should I book?
For April, June and the New Year week, two to three months ahead. For treks, at least six weeks, so you have time to train. Autumn and late winter are easier, and a couple of weeks is often enough.
Can I visit your office?
Yes. We are in Rambagh in south Srinagar, about 25 minutes from the airport, so it is easy to stop in on your way into the city. Message us first so someone is there to meet you.
Start planning
Send your dates and the kind of trip you have in mind. We reply with a route and a price, usually within a day.
- Call us+91 88512 31637
- WhatsApp+91 88512 31637
- Email[email protected]
- OfficeRambagh, Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir 190009